SUPERSTITIONS AND SEAFARING TRADITIONS IN COTTONERA
Maltese fishermen from Cottonera have long feared the tromba (also called dagħbien or dragunara in Maltese), or waterspout, a natural event where swirling clouds form a funnel and draw up seawater, creating a powerful pillar that connects the sea and the sky. When a tromba appears on the horizon, one of the crew, usually the oldest, kneels at the front of the boat and recites a secret prayer to “cut” (biex jaqta’ t-tromba) or break the swirling waterspout and stop it from coming any closer. The words of this prayer are mysterious and only passed down once a year on Christmas Eve. According to the folklorist Luigu Bonelli, the myseterious words could have been the same spoken by those praying for deliverance in underground shelters during the Second World War. The words might have been ‘Deus sanctus, Deus fortis, Deus immortalis, misererer nobis.’ If the prayer is said without a real reason, it could lose its power, so it is only used in true emergencies, like when a storm approaches.
Tromba/ Waterspout off the coast of Malta
On the 23rd of September, 1555, a waterspout capsised four galleys, killing around 600 people in the Porto delle Galere, an inlet in the Grand Harbour. Members of the Order of St John, including Grand Master de La Sengle, rushed to the scene of the disaster. Fra Mathurin d’Aux de Lescout, better known as Romegas, one of the Order’s greatest naval commanders was saved after the rescuers heard a knock coming from one of the overturned hulls. He was found standing in shoulder-high water, thanks to an air pocket. When the rescuers tore open some of the wooden planks covering the hull to set Romegas free, it was his monkey who jumped out first. Unfortunately, many of the slaves and rowers who were chained to the galley benches were unable to escape and drowned.
Fra Mathurin d’Aux de Lescout
Barklor holding rope in 18th century. Source: kliemustorja.com
Barklori in Grand Harbour
Another unique tradition is the initiation ceremony for young men who wanted to become barklori, or boatmen. This was mainly practised in the Three Cities of Birgu, Bormla, and Isla, where these boatmen worked by ferrying passengers to Valletta. The initiation was no easy task. When a young recruit arrived at the quay in Birgu, two strong barklori would wait to grab him unawares, drag him down twenty stone steps, and knock him against the prow of a boat three times. After that, he would be swung three times and thrown into the water while everyone laughed and cheered. Even though it was rough, this ceremony was a way to welcome the new boatman into the group and test his toughness.
Fort St Salvatore. Source: Continentaleurope
A third tradition was tied to the return of seamen after long voyages. Over a century ago, Malta’s merchant ships would go on trips lasting six months or more to places like England, the Black Sea, and Alexandria. When these ships came back, it was a time of joy for the families of the sailors. A man known as Pazan tal-Bxajjar (the harbinger), had an important job: he would stand on St Louis Bastion overlooking St Lawrence Cemetery or Fort St Salvatore, which was known as Is-Sur tal-Pazan, with a spyglass, watching for the ships’ return. Pazan could tell which boats had crew members from Birgu, Bormla, or Isla. He was an expert at identifying the shape, size, and rigging of sailing ships and the livery of their crew.
When he spotted a ship, he would rush to Birgu’s square to bring the happy news to waiting families or send someone else with the message. He would also notify a small band of musicians, Il-Banda tal-Musu or Banda t’Indri, so they could play a polka or another joyful tune for the homecoming. Pazan was paid a skud or half a crown for his trouble. After delivering the news, he would go back to the bastion to continue his watch for schooners from Sicily, brigantines from Pireus (a port in Athens, Greece) or barques from Cyprus, keeping an eye out
Written with reference to:
- ‘Cottonera – Three Cities behind Brothers-in-Arms’ by Christian Formosa. Published by Heritage Malta together with the Kottonera Foundation.
- ‘Traditions and folklore in Birgu’ by J. Cassar Pullicino. In: L. Bugeja, M. Buhagiar & S. Fiorini (Eds.), Birgu – a Maltese maritime city (pp. 351-387), 1993. Msida : Malta University Services.
- ‘The Maltese Islands and the Sea’ edited by Timmy Gambin, Midsea Books, 2015
- ‘Are the Maltese Superstitious?’ by Martin Morana. Accessed, October 2024: https://kliemustorja.com/2020/10/16/are-the-maltese-superstitious/